There is no correlation between the price and durability of t-shirts, a first major study into the popular garment has found. The most expensive t-shirt tested was outperformed by one costing just a 30th of its price.
The study by the University of Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC) and environmental group Wrap concluded that price has "very little" to do with the durability of most t-shirts sold in the UK. Spending more money does not guarantee the item will be more hard-wearing.
Testing reveals surprising results
Researchers tested the durability of 47 t-shirts - 24 male and 23 female designs - from UK clothing brands, including luxury items. They washed the t-shirts using a standard mixed 30C wash cycle followed by a tumble dry 50 times.
The t-shirts were graded for pilling - when small balls form on the surface of an item, and the main reason people dispose of the garments - as well as colour fading, shrinkage and general appearance. Of the top 10 best performing t-shirts, six cost less than £15, outperforming many more expensive tees including the most expensive costing £395.
Synthetic fibres show better performance
The research found more hard-wearing t-shirts tend to have a percentage of synthetic fibres in the composition such as polyester, polyamide, and elastane. Cotton t-shirts tended to have higher shrinkage than synthetic ones, which can be exacerbated with tumble drying.
However, the research found four of the 10 top garments were made of 100% cotton. This shows that material composition is not the only factor determining durability.
Expert calls for durability focus
Dr Eleanor Scott from LITAC said: "If circularity in fashion is to be truly effective, durability must come first. Durability underpins the reuse and resale market, as well as keeping our loved items in use longer."
She added: "Crucially, these findings show that durability is not a luxury reserved for the few -- it's achievable at any price point." The research challenges common assumptions about expensive clothing being superior quality.
Price proves misleading indicator
Mark Sumner, Wrap's programme lead on textiles, said: "Most shoppers use price as an indicator of how hard-wearing clothes are - 'the more I spend, the more I'm bound to get out of my purchase'. But our study shows this is totally misleading."
He highlighted stark examples: "The most expensive t-shirt we tested cost £395 and ranked 28th out of 47, while a £4 t-shirt was placed 15th. The most durable t-shirt cost £28, but the one ranked second worst was £29. So, if you're judging on price alone - buyer beware."
Research aims to improve standards
Kate Baker, a PhD candidate at LITAC who presented the findings to the Product Lifetimes and the Environment Conference in Aalborg, Denmark, said the research represents "another step forward in the road to developing a way of measuring how durable the clothes we wear are". Improved clothing durability is critical for the future of circularity and providing the opportunity for people to wear the clothes they love for longer.
The report recommends that consumers wishing to ensure their t-shirts are as hard-wearing as possible choose heavier weight cotton options, while those with a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres also perform well.
(PA) Note: This article has been edited with the help of Artificial Intelligence.
